The Llanos
by Peter Rockstroh
Llano landscape. Image: ©María José González 2021.
The amazing assemblage of bird life across South America has attracted growing numbers of birdwatchers for the past 30 years. This avian diversity is largely the result of a complex mosaic of mountain ranges stretching parallel to the Pacific coast and branching east along the Caribbean then south to the Atlantic. These rain-drenched highlands are split by large river systems that separate them into isolated regions that favor local speciation over time. The lowlands are also influenced by these rivers since each one possesses a different water chemistry, geological history and origin that affects both the vegetation that grows along their paths and the wildlife associated with these habitats.
Biogeographic regions that have definite physical boundaries isolating them from their neighboring geographic units have been defined as areas of endemism when they contain a relatively large number of distinct species that do not occur anywhere outside of these boundaries. Cracraft (1984) proposed 33 areas of endemism for South American birds, all of them with representative lists of localized species, and concluded that most South American bird species were narrowly endemic rather than widespread.
The green kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana) is the most abundant species of its family in the Llanos. The powerful beak and its large size in proportion to the bird’s body are often used to capture fairly large prey. Besides fish, they will also catch frogs, small snakes, and lizards. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
This is one of the main reasons South America is so appealing for birdwatchers, especially when they can find a country where one can travel from one area of avian endemism to another within a short distance. Colombia overlaps with nine of these 33 areas of avian endemism on the continent, making the country particularly attractive for birding. Local professional bird guides know all the “gold mines” of these different areas: Where can you find the highest diversity of hummingbirds? or the most tanager species; the best places to observe rainforest raptors and so forth.
There is one noteworthy area in Colombia that does not have these geographic barriers to isolate it from its surroundings. Because of this, it also lacks high numbers of endemic species and is rather a community of fauna widespread throughout the American tropics. Although it seems to be missing many attractions hard-core birders look for, it deserves the title of being the most fun place to birdwatch in the country.
This region is the eastern Llanos of Colombia.
The eastern Llanos (pronounced YAH-noss) cover about one-third of Colombia’s 424,700 sq.²/1,100,000 km². They extend from the eastern Andes to the Orinoco floodplains and then south until reaching the Amazon. Some authors say the term Llanos applies only to the northern half of this area, while other authors include the whole eastern lowlands that extend well into western Venezuela as part of the term. The northern Llanos have a longer dry season during which a large part of temporary ponds and channels dry up until the rains return. The grasslands of this area have a lot more typical savannah bird species that migrate altitudinally depending on the seasons.
These vast open areas are a paradise for aquatic birds, and many species from this group that occur in the Neotropics and further north can be found throughout these plains. A myriad of rivers, creeks and lagoons, seasonal oxbow lakes and flooded grasslands are home to the world’s most diverse fish fauna, which in turn supports great part of this avian wealth.
Shallow Llano backwater. Image: ©María José González 2021.
The jabiru stork (Jabiru mycteria) is the largest aquatic bird in Central and South America. Its powerful bill can handle all sorts of prey from small caiman, turtles and frogs, to rodents, snakes and lungfish. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
¿What convinced me that this the most fun place to birdwatch in Colombia?
First, the high bird densities. The area might not have the avian diversity of many other parts of Colombia, but what it lacks in diversity, it makes up for in density. You always see a lot of birds.
Second, this is an area with a lot of big, showy birds. Bird life here is very visible, not only in numbers, but also in terms of bird size.
Herons, storks, egrets, macaws, toucans and birds of prey make this a great spot to take people that have not been birdwatching before, and helps them to understand what makes this past-time so enjoyable.
Third, as a bonus you get to see lots of mammals and large reptiles. Capybaras, white-tail deer and foxes are abundant. Large and medium sized cats are often “spotted”, as well as giant anteaters, green anacondas and caimans.
Large adult spectacled caiman (Caiman crocodilus) basking. Large caiman are both predator and prey in this region. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
Fourth, there are very comfortable options to observe wildlife in the area. Most farms that include wildlife tourism in their programs have modified pick-up trucks or tractor-pulled platforms to cruise the farms and watch wildlife, and all of these farms also offer horseback safaris.
The crab-eating fox (Cerdocyon thous) has become a common sight in the Llanos. It is most active during the gray hours of the day, hunting and scavenging for all sorts of small animals. Unlike its wide-ranging cousin the gray fox (Urocyon cinereoargenteus), this species lacks climbing abilities and frugivorous tendencies. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
The yellow-headed caracara (Milvago chimachima) is by far the most common raptor in the area, no doubt because of their close relationship with cattle. These birds perform a similar function to oxpeckers (Buphagus species) in Africa, feeding on ectoparasites on large mammals. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
Fifth, in many areas the birds are habituated to the presence of humans and have a very short flight distance. This allows visitors to observe and photograph them at much closer range than they normally permit.
After visiting the area a few times, I definitely think that it is worthwhile driving from Bogotá to Yopal rather than flying, just to get an idea of the shifting landscapes. It is a very pleasant drive which takes you through the state of Boyacá and then meanders down the foothills through spectacular humid montane forest. From there on it is even more worth your while is to leave your car in Yopal and hiring a local tour service from there on. The biggest advantage of this is that your driver will know exactly where to look for what you want to see or photograph, and he will not spend hours getting lost, then trying to find a way back without bothering to ask anyone for directions, and so you will be able to enjoy the trip rather than driving around in circles for ages.
Not that this has ever happened to me.
Whistling herons (Syrigma sibiliatrix) are one of the more colorful waders in the region. They are frequently seen in pairs scanning humid grasslands for reptiles, amphibians and small mammals to snack on. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
During the last visit to the Llanos in March of this year the service was provided by Wild Llanos (company website link provided below), and it was a great decision. I did my absolute best to pester them as much as I could, changed my schedule several times, then changed it again upon arrival. Not only did they not shoot me out of sheer exasperation but did everything possible to accommodate even my strangest requests.
Above, a giant anteater (Myrmecophaga tridactyla) carrying her rather large and indolent-looking offspring across the savannah. Known throughout the llanos of Colombia and Venezuela as oso palmero. Outside of protected areas of eastern Panamá giant anteaters are believed extirpated throughout Central America–where they were formerly known as oso caballo–but are still widespread and locally common in parts of South America. As is the case with smaller anteater species, tragically large numbers are hit by cars every year while crossing roads. They are a signature large mammal of the Llanos and other remote grasslands on the continent. Image: ©Andrés González/Wild Llanos 2021.
Capybaras (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris) and white–tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus) are the main food sources for all large carnivores in the region. Their increased abundance in the region since ranches have banned hunting on their lands is doubtless the basis for likewise healthy populations of capybara and deer predators. Image: ©María José González 2021.
To get an idea what the local tourism infrastructure had to offer, my wife and I stayed at three farms in five days. The accommodations were all well organized and clean. Food in the Llanos has to be understood within a local context, as a product of the circumstances. The whole area is a patchwork of extensive cattle ranches, which means that:
a. If you’re hungry, somebody will catch and kill an animal, most probably a cow.
b. Agriculture is not an activity that runs in the blood of Llanos cowboys.
c. Soil and weather conditions are both generally terrible to grow leafy vegetables and usual suspect-type fruits.
During my first trip to the Llanos we drove there with my wife and our daughter. The Sunday buffet was 90% red meat and 10% carbohydrates, so when the waiter asked my daughter what she would like for brunch her response was, “I’m a vegetarian. ¿What can you offer me?”
After a brief and thoughtful pause, he replied, “Please give me a moment. I’ll go and get you some chicken.”
Should you be in the mood to chat with the local ranch chef, don’t bother starting the conversation with, “¿Have you heard that arugula is the new Frisée?” Yes, a conspicuous lack of vegetables can be a minor shortcoming of this area, but on the other hand you’ll never hear small children having broccoli or brussels sprouts’ tantrums during meals.
When capybaras (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris) sense large predators, a few of the larger females will drive all the young into the water and take them to a safe place while the males guard the escape route. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
While salad is still relatively foreign and poorly understood in the area, music isn’t, and the term “stage fright” is completely unknown. Every Llanero is a troubadour and can recite poetry, even if he probably shouldn’t. Most ranches in the area have their very own Orinoco Delta Chamber Music Ensemble, consisting of guitar, harp (the angelical 30-34 string version), bandola and percussion. The Bandola is a ukulele whipped into submission with two metal and two nailón strings (correct this spelling to “nylon” and no one will know you are talking about). The music of the Llanos is based on a few chords that are the harmonic backbone to tell stories about love and honor, wild men and wild horses, local tradition and wildlife. Everything in one song, the epic life: Story of a man who fell in love with the local lifestyle together with the wild men and their horses, brave traditions, and Llanos wildlife.
And honor.
And more horses.
And finally, a bit more Llanos wildlife.
It’s beautiful. I cry every time I sing along.
Humboldt’s squirrel monkeys (Saimiri cassiquiarensis) occur in patches of riparian vegetation throughout the Llanos. This is not necessarily their preferred habitat but their presence is likely the result of losing forest cover to agriculture, except for narrow strips of native vegetation protecting riverbanks from erosion. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
Back to the wildlife tours.
Most old ranches in the area are a bit larger than some of the smaller European countries, and range between 7,750 and 125,000 acres/3,000 to 50,000 ha. Cattle roam free on the land and are rounded up a few times a year and part of it sold to generate income. These are cash cows in the classic sense. Other than that, cattle do not receive much attention except when tourists book a cattle drive. On these occasions visitors get to ride and chase a bunch of cows over the soccer field and into the pond. Children especially love the experience since they get to yell various profanities at the cows together with the cowboys while simultaneously getting covered in mud and without being scolded. After that the soccer field is cleaned and the cows return to their corral using the main road, as they normally do Monday to Friday.
Now really, back to the wildlife tours.
Every farm has a few spots that are the pride of the place and appear on the entrance sign, the cover of their brochure and their coat of arms, should they develop one. On the first Hato** we visited, we were taken on a tour along cattle pastures at the edge of a channel, and we saw a lot of wildlife. At 4:30 we drove back towards the farmhouse and stopped about 160’/50 meters before the gate. He asked us to follow him and a few minutes later pointed at a pair of comfortable-looking chairs and a small table. We sat down for coffee and some cookies and, as we gazed at the landscape, across the pond in front of us was a large tree with several dozen cattle egrets (Bubulcus ibis) settling in for the night. Fifteen minutes later scarlet ibis (Eudocimus ruber) showed up in groups of three or four and perched in the perimeter of the cattle egrets. The last groups to turn up were great white egrets, and a few scattered limpkins (Aramus guarauna). The tree looked like an ornithologist’s version of a Christmas tree.
Large numbers of scarlet ibis (Eudocimus ruber) are the icing on the cake for birdwatchers in the Llanos. During the breeding season (August – September) some roost exceeds 100 nests and one of the larger farms has a mixed rookery estimated to hold nearly 1,000 nesting pairs of ibis, but mainly scarlets. Occasionally they will cross with white ibis (E. albus) and produce intergrade (blotched) hybrid offspring. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
The next ranch we visited had a mixture of cattle pastures and orchards that gradually flowed into the backyard. The farmhouse is well known in the area for wildlife that can be seen from the house. Twenty steps in front of the open restaurant is a seasonal pond, where you can see caimans (Caiman crocodilus), Llanos side-necked turtles (Podocnemis vogli), capybaras (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris) and large numbers of wading birds.
Mudflats, flooded grasslands and any habitat with large expanses of soft mud suit the feeding habits of all species of ibis. Apart from the white, red, glossy, green and bare-faced species, the buff-necked ibis (Theristicus caudatus) is a common sight in the Llanos. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
Our next stop was one of the larger ranches in the area. This is a property that originally encompassed more than 75,000 acres/30,000 ha, which now has been split into different adjacent farms, each with its own accommodations and attractions. We spent two fantastic days cruising these farms with our driver and a local guide, and had the good fortune to see most of the species we were expecting to see, minus a few we will have to return for.
The relatively recent concept of mixing cattle ranching and tourism, originally developed in other parts of the world and later the south Brazilian Pantanal, is picking up momentum in Colombia. We were glad to see the enthusiastic involvement of everyone we spoke with on our trip. Even subsistence hunting has stopped in these ranches, as we could witness by way of the large groups of capybaras sleeping around the farmhouse every night.
Sunbittern (Eurypyga helias) are very common throughout the Llanos, and are frequently seen in pairs. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
“Interesting,” I remarked to our guide, looking at the large group of 100 lb/46 kg plus, Labrador-sized rodents. “¿Why do you think they come here to sleep?”
He smiled and said,“Here they are a lot safer from jaguars and pumas than out there”, pointing at the savannah. It makes sense. We had a puma cross the road less than 30’/9 m from us while photographing a group of sunbitterns (Eurypyga helias).
“¿How often do you see big cats on the farm?” I asked.
“I am 55. I’ve been working here for 15 years and I was born in the region. I saw my first big cat on this farm when I started working here. We now have weekly reports from our workers for both jaguar and puma, and now see females with cubs every year.”
It seems over in the Llanos they are on the right track with this profitable blend of tropical ranching and wildlife conservation.
I have got to go back as soon as I can.
Burrowing owls (Athene cunicularia) are frequently seen in the northern Llanos. As their common name indicates, they nest in burrows in higher cattle pastures that don’t flood during the rainy season. These very photogenic birds facilitate infestations of chiggers to bird photographers, who are the only creatures dumb enough to lie down in a cattle pasture to get close to them. During the breeding season some burrowing owl populations migrate and at their annual peak occur across the Americas from central Canada discontinuously south through to Patagonia. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
** A large ranch
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Cracraft, J. 1984. Historical Biogeography and Patterns of Differentiation within the South American Avifauna: Areas of Endemism. In: Neotropical Ornithology. Ornithological Monographs No. 36, A.O.U., 1985 pp.49-84.
A special thanks to the staff at Wild Llanos.
The usual legal disclaimers about linking to tourism and travel sites around the world apply: This is not a blanket endorsement of the visitor services available in the country of Colombia nor the region in general, nor the entity Wild Llanos in particular, so please do your own due diligence prior to to booking a vacation. Don’t bother coming back here to whine or threaten to sue if you get injured, didn’t like the accommodations, was the victim of imperfect connecting flights or a mugging, disliked the quality of the food that you get served, encountered “not enough wildlife”, nor anything else bad that might/happens to you or your traveling companions while on holiday. This (hopefully) fully understood, please feel free to check them out at:
Contact: Julia Buschmann
Yopal, Casanare, Colombia
Tel: +57 320 480 1464
julia@wildllanos.com
GALLERY
These young jacanas (Jacana spinosa) forage in a pond in front of one of the farmhouses. Habituated to human presence, they will occasionally squabble and extend their mock fights into the hotel corridors. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
The Cocoi heron (Ardea cocoi) is a mostly solitary species, but is occasionally seen in mixed feeding flocks of wading birds. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
A jabiru stork fishing. These images illustrate the stork washing and shaking of the mud off his prey, a decent-sized wolf fish (Hoplias malabaricus). Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
A family of Orinoco geese (Chen jubatus) wading at the edge of a channel. These large birds were also subject to heavy harvest in the region before regional farms and ranches decided to ban hunting altogether. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
The Chilean lapwing (Vanellus chilensis) is an ubiquitous species that can be found from sea level up to over 13,000’/4,000 masl. I looks its best in warmer climates when bright sunshine allows it to display its colorful iridescent shoulder parches. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
Scarlet ibis (Eudocimus ruber) and cattle egrets (Bubulcus ibis) at a mixed roost. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
The horned screamer (Anhima cornuta) is an unusual bird, associated with riparian vegetation. Its stout built does not match the design of a wading bird, but more the Gestalt of a turkey. Usually seen in pairs or small groups, these birds are commonly hunted. Where hunting has been eliminated they have rapidly recovered. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
Roseate spoonbills (Platalea ajaja), like Caribbean flamingos (Phoenicpterus ruber), feed by filtering water through the sieve like structures in their beaks. Image: ©Peter Rockstroh 2021.
The Llanos are famous in Colombia for their beautiful sunsets, something usually associated with particles in the atmosphere. Unfortunately, this is often caused by forest fires. Image: ©María José González 2021.
A special thanks to my wife María José for contributing several of her beautiful Llanos landscape shots, together with Andrés González for allowing me to reproduce the image of wild giant anteaters shown above.
All content ©Exotica Esoterica LLC® 2021, ©María José González 2021, ©Peter Rockstroh 2021 and Andrés González/Wild Llanos 2021.
